Cruising the Exumas

The Exuma Islands have everything that makes the Bahamas one of the premier yacht charter locations in the world: delightful small islands, pristine white beaches, interesting and historic places, exotic creatures, friendly locals. All 120 miles are a yachting paradise!

The Exumas have the distinction of being the only islands in the Bahamas, and perhaps the Caribbean, where not one but two James Bond movies were filmed. Those films, Thunderball and Never Say Never Again, were both filmed in Staniel Cay. Within the exumas, there are 365 islands and cays that lie strung out across over 120 miles of ocean. From the air, the cays look like jeweled stepping stones surrounded by a shimmering emerald sea giving this chain the distinction of being one of the prettiest in The Bahamas. The bright white sand of the deserted beaches is a striking contrast to the deep aquamarine and jade hues of the water.

Most of Exuma's 3,600 residents live on Great Exuma or Little Exuma, the two largest islands in the south that are connected by a short bridge. These friendly and outgoing people are genuinely happy to receive vacationers. Most Exumians make their living fishing or farming, with the main crops being onions, tomatoes, pigeon peas, guavas, papayas and mangoes.

Visitors can still find wild cotton growing on Exuma, a testament to the importance of this plant in the island's history. Lord John Rolle imported the first cottonseeds in the late 18th century. He , had more than 300 slaves working on Great Exuma. These slaves adopted their master's surname as was the custom of the day. When cotton proved to be a financial failure for Lord Roelle and the prospect of emancipation loomed, he chose to deed the 2,300 acres of land to his slaves. This land has been passed on to each new generation and can never be sold to outsiders. Today almost half of the residents still go by the surname Rolle, and one of the largest settlements is appropriately named Rolleville.

Georgetown, Great Exuma is home to the Bahamas Annual Family Island Regatta. This regatta is held every April in picturesque Elizabeth Harbour and holds the distinction of begin one of the most prestigious annual events in the Bahamas. A tribute to tradition, the regatta is a race of Bahamian workboats, handmade sloops with wooden hulls, canvas sails and tall wooden masts. George Town is also home to the Government Administration Building, a pink and white building modeled after the Government House in Nassau. A few steps north is St. Andrew's Anglican Church, a beautiful 150-year old white building with blue doors and shutters that is an active place of worship today.

The Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, a 176-square mile natural preserve is home to brilliant coral reefs, exotic marine life and the rare Bahamian iguana - some of which grow to over two feet long.  In Fowl Cay you can explore a salt water river taking you all the way through the heart of the island. It is a truly breathtaking experience. The Exuma islands continue to be one of our favorite charter vacation experiences in the world truly preserving Caribbean beauty amongst its many in habited and un-inhabited islands.

Highlights

1. Ship Channel Cay – Closest point in the Exumas to Nassau. Very interesting shark and ray feeding at 11am followed by a nice local grilled fish lunch.  Nature tours, beautiful beach and snorkeling.

2. Allen Cays – About 10 miles south of Ship Channel.  This is a little atoll of cays that you can anchor in the midst of for protection.  Allen Cay is the home of many native Rock Iguanas that are anxious to share your leftovers from the previous meal.  Beautiful scenery beaches and snorkeling or diving.

3. Highborne Cay – About 5 miles south of Allen Cay.  Highborne has a very nice Marina with a ship store and provisions and fuel.  Beautiful beaches, fun boating crowd and friendly people. This is big Mega Yacht Territory.  Some of the world's most beautiful Megayachts will be found anchored out or in the marina.

4. Compass Cay – Very interesting Island with long trails to tour the countryside and beaches. Great little marina.  Thousands of Bonefish and other friendly nurse sharks, rays etc. swimming in the marina. Beaches and Snorkeling and social spot. Johnny Depp ownes an island adjacent to Compass Cay.

5. Sampson Cay – Nicely developed marina and restaurant with a beautiful cozy resort.  Beaches, snorkeling and social spot.

6. Warderick Wells – Exuma National Parks and Trust.  Nature trails, exquisite beaches, small park office with gift shop items.

7. Norman Cay – Partially submerged plane wreck that makes for a great snorkel.  Conch breeding grounds in the shallows.

8. Big Majors Cay – Home of the world famous Island Pigs, who swim out to meet you if you bring leftovers.  Great beaches and snorkeling.  Adjacent to Staniel Cay.

9. Staniel Cay – Snorkel the Grotto Cave.  Home of 2 James Bond Filmings.  Staniel Cay Yacht Club, Club Thunderball.  Fun little local Exuma Town with landing strip and all you need to reprovision.  Beautiful architecture and Caribbean colors. Staniel Cay Yacht Club gets crazy at night.  Lots of fun, good food and music.

10. Black Point – Another very local village just south of Staniel.  Between Staniel and Black Point is a small Island owned by Faith Hill and Tim McGraw.

There are more sights to see than you can fit into a 7-day charter. The Exumas warrant revisiting many times to learn all their hidden secrets. To maximize your charter, I suggest 360 Yachting's Signature 360 One-Way Itinerary which allows you to start your charter in Rock Sound South Eleuthera and end at the Emerald Bay Marina in Great Exuma. Traveling on-way through the Exumas makes perfect sense as the 120 mile span makes for a long, possible up-wind return delivery.

Provisioning in Rock Sound is very easy and convenient with Eleuthera's largest grocery distribution hub and market is located nearby the marina. You could even pre-order your provisions to ensure you have access to all the items you need for your charter. The Bahamas allow one cooler of meat per person to be brought into the country duty free. Take advantage of this as meat is the most inflated expense when provisioning in the Exumas. Do remember that cruising the Exumas is truly blue water cruising. Once you head out of Rock Sound, shopping options will become very limited.

Each Day, according to the weather,  you can choose to sail in the deep water (6000 ft) of Exuma Sound where you can take a chance at catching big game fish or to the West side of the Cays on the shallow Bank in 10 – 30 feet of water. The Exuma islands continue to be one of my favorite charter vacation experiences in the world, truly preserving Caribbean beauty amongst its many in habited and un-inhabited islands. I hope you enjoy cruising the Exumas as much as I do.

Article Written and Copyrighted by Jay Phillips, Managing Director of 360 Yachting.